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Carta di credito con fido
Procedura celere
The beaches and seas are often the destinations of our travels. But perhaps they’re even more fascinating in the low season, when the towns grow empty, leaving only the blue of the sea and the green of the maritime pines to welcome those visiting the Italian Riviera. One of the most prominent destinations here is the Gulf of Tigullio and its elegant Santa Margherita Ligure, where the enchantment of Christmas emerges amidst decorations, lights and age-old traditions.
For the most charming Christmas decorations, the place to visit is La Tenda, a treasure trove of clothing from various brands curated by the whimsical taste of Susanna Pesce, an eccentric personality that has led the store since 1978. Every December, a quirky crib in the window draws visitors and chatter. The Christmas tree is no less, surrounded by animal rugs, antique mirrors and the trompe-l’œils of Patrizia Toscani, who cyclically reappears as a devoted decorator to paint new corners with an Arabian phoenix or Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec’s ballerinas. This is where the regulars come out even more beautiful, as Susanna — who before taking over “La Tenda Stracci e Cocci” (as it was called at the time), was herself a customer traveling from Genoa to redo her wardrobe — “hates” everything trendy. “We make the trends here,” she says as she leaves the premises, heading a few streets over, to Oneto, a pastry bar in Piazza Caprera where everyone knows each other and voices carry from table to table in the early morning hours. Here, between one “buongiorno” and the next, focaccias are dipped deep into cappuccinos. The service is as relaxed as the sea’s waves (when it’s not storming) and urges guess to take their time enjoying life’s little joys. Behind the counter is Mrs. Maria, the owner, who at the age of 83 arranges freshly baked pastries and brioches in the window, presiding over the till with the same sweet smile of your grandma. Maria’s children run the bar until 8 PM, but if anyone wants to stick around for a nightcap, the shutters will close a bit later than usual.
Conto e carta
difficile da pignorare
We’re now in the heart of the historic center, crossing the square and the Basilica of Santa Margherita of Antioch with its two bell towers on the side, where we find ourselves before the windows of one of the oldest institutions in Santa Margherita: Seghezzo, a paradise for every delicacy, sweet or savory, since 1905. A temple for the foodies and wanderers who love to get lost among the overflowing aisles of an old-fashioned grocery store. Everything here is as it was, from the handwritten labels to the endless jars of loose candy, the baskets with fresh treats like cremini, marron glacé and orange fillets, and vintage products that are miraculously still on the market. A full-fledged blast from the past.
Strolling toward Piazza G. Mazzini, where there were once only vegetable gardens — or so say the locals — is La Casa Del Bianco, which since 1920 has been a hidden treasure for fabric and textile enthusiasts. Leading the business are sisters Anna and Pinuccia Revello, famous for trading in Genoese mezzari, once used by women to make their own party dresses. From the Curiel family to Romeo Gigli, everyone falls under the spell of this old world of Swiss Batiste, Art Nouveau fantasies, and smock-stitch embroidered dresses.
Another classic not to miss among the historic establishments are the old delicatessens turned legendary restaurants that have remained family-run, including Trattoria da Pezzi, Beppe Achilli and La Cambusa, where Genoese specialties are served.
Our post-lunch suggestion is to walk the picturesque stretch of waterfront from Santa Margherita to Paraggi Bay, an inlet stripped of seasonal excesses and perhaps, for this very reason, even more bewitching. From Paraggi we begin “La passeggiata dei baci,” or “The Walk of Kisses,” an easy path immersed in the nature of the Portofino Regional Park that takes just twenty minutes before the Church of San Martino in the oldest part of Portofino.
In the famous cove welcoming the picturesque town, there’s not much of the traditional left, but in low season, when it’s quiet and calm, you can still find the authentic beauty of this fishing village. The boats of billionaires give way to the colorful gozzi and seagulls, and the celebrities leave the scene as locals resurface once more. Exploring the Regional Park, visiting the Brown Castle, St. George’s Church, the cemetery hidden by its churchyard, the Lighthouse and running into occasional encounters with some old natives make for a more than pleasant stay. With the arrival of the holiday season, the country comes alive with events, including the Great New Year’s Eve Party with live music, DJ sets, toasts and free transfers after midnight to and from Santa Margherita. Don’t miss the festive traditions with lace in the Piazzetta on January 2, which is also covered in the immersive visit to Brown Castle, where you’ll find one of the most beautiful views of the promontory.
DaV Mare, Portofino
There aren’t many open businesses, but there are those who shine brighter than ever at this time of year. We’re talking about Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel, decorated for the holidays by Vincenzo Dascanio. Pine trees, decorated garlands, red bows and flowers, berries and poinsettias scattered from top to bottom radiate Christmas magic. The outdoor area of DaV Mare restaurant (in partnership with the Cerea family and forerunner of other big names such as Cracco and Langosteria) featuring an explosion of lights and a view of the giant illuminated fir tree in the square, is the place to be to experience the enchantment of Christmas while eating well. Open to outsiders from breakfast to dinner, the à la carte menu offers several delicacies including tuna spaghetti and trofie pasta with pesto and Prà basil. The welcome cocktail is a Libeccio (a mocktail made with chinotto nectar, apple juice, strawberry puree and Niasca lemonade), part of a drink list that honors local products. For mixology enthusiasts, on December 19 there will be an evening organized with Milan’s Rita Cocktails — a point of reference for fine drinking.
Prestito personale
Delibera veloce
From the restaurant to the hotel, the pampering continues in the 14 rooms and suites, furnished like a home favoring craftsmanship, art and design. Sleeping on the oversize bed is like floating on a white, soft cloud, while gazing out from the terrace makes you dream of being Ava Gardner, Liz Taylor, Marcello Mastroianni or Aristotle Onassis living la Dolce Vita. Room service is 24/24, and although it’s hard to part from the room, the hotel’s experiences include environmental excursions with professional guides. Among them you’ll find Sonia Marcassa, who knows how to engage even the laziest with her infectious smile and savoir-faire, exploring the Mediterranean scrubland of the Monte between holm oaks, mastic trees, myrtles, maritime pines and olive trees with indescribable viewpoints.
Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino
Looking closely, on the second floor of a typical house in the small square is Ü Caban, a tiny bar overlooking the sea, designed and furnished like a boat. Here, you can buy and taste honey-sweetened lemonades, jams, beers, myrtle, limoncino, oil and wine, produced by La Portofinese, a local farm with three hectares of fields cultivated on the slopes of Portofino Park without the use of chemicals.
Ü Caban, Portofino
It’s impossible to leave Portus Delphini (as the Romans called it) without first stopping at the 100-year-old San Giorgio ice cream shop, owned by the Consigliere Family (builders of the Portofino Lighthouse) and run by Belmond, which is new to the restyling. On the list besides the Paciugo (a bowl of ice cream with whipped cream, black cherries and berries) are a few exquisite flavors that, aside from the great classics, vary according to seasonal availability. Hot chocolate, waffles and mulled wine are offered to those who need to warm up, but the real treat is perhaps relaxing during a brisk winter day at the edge of the square, enjoying a pandoro ice cream as you watch the seagulls come and go. Flying overhead, they gaze over the gardens suspended above the sea, catching the last bit of sunshine as white sails pass by along the horizon.
Le specie di agrumi da coltivare d’inverno
Vivaio di Castelletto: Limone rosso
Vivaio di Castelletto: Yuzu
Vivaio di Castelletto: Kumquat
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